Bonnet/Hood Latch
Release Cable   Latch   Emergency Release
Release cable: Deeply recessed in the inner wing, may need removal of the servo to access the nut:

Unless you can get a longish extension with a crows-foot socket on a socket ratchet through the forward aperture in the inner wing:

Rear-most of three P-clips securing the cable, should really be a shorter bolt with a jam-nut:

The middle P-clip, correct bolt but needs a jam-nut:

The forward P-clip, this bolt is also longer than it needs to be but needs the standard nut securing both the P-clip and the radiator support strut:

Latch components:

Latch release:

This image is deliberately upside down so it looks the same as leaning in from above and looking 'back' i.e. towards the front of the car. 'A' is the latch lever with a cylinder at the end with a hole for the release cable inner; 'B' is the support bracket for the release cable outer, with a hole for the inner to pass through; 'C' is the bracket for the fixed end of the latch closing spring; 'D' is the trunnion with the release cable inner passing through twice to make a loop, as well as through the hole in the cylinder in the end of the release lever; 'E' is an emergency release pull cord which passes through the grommeted hole in the inner wing for the lighting wires:

Emergency release:
Probably wise to install some kind of an emergency release (as per 'E' above) given the age of the factory cable, it's relative size given the 'pull' that is usually needed on the cabin lever and rusting making the inner thinner as well as binding in the outer. I have used braided curtain pull cord which is immensely strong, tied round the end of the latch release lever and fed out through the inner wing. Bee came to me with the horns fitted directly to the inner wing instead of using the original bracket, so only uses one hole instead of two, and I've used the second hole for the pull-cord:

But Vee has the horns on the brackets so I've used the grommeted hole that carries the lighting wires:

Both allow me to give the cord a good pull with only the wheel turned outwards that side, and prevents the end disappearing back into the engine compartment. That has to be considered as under-way the air through the grille tends to blow the cord in the engine compartment backwards, which would pull a free end out. An additional consideration is on cars with electric fans particularly the dual factory fans as on North American spec and V8s as the cord can end up going over one of the blades and stalling that fan - something I've experienced twice now after working in that area, and the cord is now looped around the factory release outer to keep it out of the way. Some have suggested a stiff metal wire instead, which wouldn't have that problem but it may have it's own issues with rattling and chafing. One person even suggested drilling an additional hole in the inner wing for a stiff wire, and he didn't even grommet it.

Note that if you have under-wing shields you would need to run it through that as well.

Without the emergency release pull cord as above RB cars are relatively easy to open with a rod as below. This doesn't work with honeycomb-grille cars, and probably not with slatted. Can't speak for recessed-grille cars.


A long rod inserted and bearing on the end of the lock lever where the cable is attached. What you are trying to do is use the rod to push on the end of the lock lever to release the bonnet/hood pin.


The horizontal angle of the rod which is inserted through the mesh right at the very top the 4th hole left from the centre mounting of the mesh. On mine the mesh makes 'diamond' shapes and the very top row only has the bottom half of the diamond, the top half is covered by the frame to the mesh.


The vertical angle of the rod. The end outside the car is angled down as far as it will go, it is in contact with the bottom edge of the bumper aperture.