Lock problems

Fittings: The five (OK one missing when I took this) screws that hold the lid to the dash panel. The central one screws into a welded nut so is easy, the other four have lock-washers and nuts on top that need a 2BA spanner. Remove the central one last/re-fit first to hold the lid while you are messing with the others. Check all come loose before fully removing any of them, you wouldn't want to get so far and be stymied by one or two rusted ones (mine weren't). 'A' is one (HZA545) of the two pieces that support the back of the fibre-board 'box' ('B'), the other (HZA543) goes up from the screw near the bottom of the image to the back of the box. Both NLA, but easy enough to fabricate:

'C' is a sheet-metal screw and cup-washer go through the fibre-board 'box' into the rear (rear as in 'behind the glovebox') bracket:

'D' is where the lid hinge screw with lock-washer goes up through the dashboard flange into the welded nut of the lower bracket; 'E' is where a screw with lock-washer go up through the hole in the lower bracket, the hole in the bracket on the cross-brace, into the welded nut on the rear bracket:

'C' is the hole for the sheet-metal screw through the back of the glovebox; 'D' is the welded nut in the lower bracket for the lid hinge screw. This nut is underneath the bracket to act as a spacer for the downward-facing flanges on the bracket because the bracket goes on top of the dashboard flange; 'E' is where the screw goes through the lower bracket and the cross-brace bracket into the welded nut on the rear bracket:

As above:

Lock problems:

With the five lid hinge screws out the lower edge of the lid will come forwards, I did wonder if it would do so far enough to get a 9/16" spanner up behind to undo the screw that holds the lock tongue onto the barrel, but mine wouldn't without forcing. Slide the lid to the left as far as you can, and lower the left-hand side, and the tongue should come free of the slot in the dash panel, so the lid can be lowered on the stay wire. The arrows show some of the screws that attach the fibre-board 'box' to the dash panel:

When refitting you may need to bias the lid to the left before fully tightening the screws, if it is too far to the right the tongue can't rotate clockwise far enough and the key may be difficult to remove and insert. But there isn't much scope for lateral movement, and although the original key worked OK a new one bought as a spare worked the lock OK with the lid open but it was a struggle to get the key out with it closed. This is because for some reason the striker plate 'A' has an edge that stops the lock tongue going past a certain point, even though the lock itself prevents it moving past a certain point anyway. I removed the rubber buffer and striker plate by undoing the two screws 'B' (the other one on the far side of the rubber buffer) and cut that stop edge back about 1/8" towards the point of the arrow, and now the key comes out easily:

Plan B would be to pick the lock, before resorting to destroying either the lock or the fibre-board box. Consider this 5-tumbler Yale-type lock, with no key inserted. Each tumbler is in two halves (blue and pink here), and the lengths of the halves varies from tumbler to tumbler. With no key inserted all the blue sections bridge the join between the yellow barrel and the green lock body, which prevents the barrel turning:

Now consider an incorrect key. The tumblers have been moved up to various position by the key, but because it is the incorrect key some of the blue sections and some of the pink are now preventing the barrel from turning:

With the correct key the tumblers are again moved up to various positions, but this time all the joins between the two halves of each tumbler are in line with each other, and in line with the join between the barrel and the lock body ...

... so the key is able to turn the barrel. With the key turned the blue sections are held in position by the barrel, the pink sections by the lock body, and the pink sections prevent the key from being withdrawn.

With Bee's glovebox lock there are only three tumblers, you can see two of the three arrowed here. The nearest tumbler is set low with the key out, the second one is the same height so hidden behind the first, but the third one is higher so visible behind the first two:

Manufacturing tolerances in cheap locks are such that if you apply some 'unlocking' force to the barrel, then depress each tumbler in turn with a pick, one of the tumblers will almost certain move to the correct position and the barrel move a fraction more, which keeps that tumbler in the correct position. By keeping up the tension and depressing each tumbler again, another should move to the correct position and the barrel move a little more, and so on. If you apply too much force to the barrel the tumblers probably won't move, and if you don't apply enough they will probably spring back to the locked position. When all the tumblers have been aligned the barrel should turn fully.

I got a long panel-pin as a pick, and a small screwdriver, and by poking the panel pin in to depress the tumblers while applying a turning force to the barrel with the screwdriver, the lock came open in a couple of minutes. I have to say this was with the lock removed and held lightly in a vice as I didn't want to booger the lock while the lid was closed! Like that the barrel moved very easily, but when I subsequently tried it in-situ it was more difficult as with the lock engaged the back of the striker is pressing against the tongue which is angling the barrel in the lock body slightly, the lid has to be pressed closed to free it up. I did manage to get one of the barrels in the right place on one occasion (if you release the barrel you will see it click back up), and another on another occasion, but couldn't get all three in the time I was prepared to give it. Nevertheless, if I had to do it in anger I would persevere, having been able to do it on the bench.