Hood/Top Folding

Front bow fouls the body

Lay the rear panels over the main part

Tuck in the quarter-lights (you can see one of the cords that pulls the rear bar into the correct position when the hood is erected).

Lower it into the tonneau space, holding up the rear edge to lift the rear bar and stop it jamming on the wheel arches.

Lay the rear part over the rest of the assembly (closing the catches first). The folds should all be in the material not the windows, and the strips between the rear window and quarter-lights should be lying over the header rail clips.

This picture was taken to show the windstop, but also shows how flat the tonneau cover is over the hood, which has dropped down completely into the space behind the seats.

65 with the later Michelotti frame all the way, as well as still being fastened to the rear panel. It has the rear window zipped out though, so maybe that makes a difference.

Front bow fouls the body:

The most convenient position for the front bow is to point down and slightly back at the same angle as the middle bow ...

... then when folded it points straight forwards and tucks inside the cockpit rail

If it is pointing too far backwards ...

... it will be pointing straight down when the hood is folded and foul the body

If it is pointing straight down when erected ...

... then when folded it won't foul the body but will be pointing up upwards, which is less convenient.

The front bow support 'A' looks like it should more-or-less butt up against block 'B' giving just a small amount of movement of the bow. 'C' is the short rear strut and 'D' the longer front strut. If the side of A should butt right up against the edge of the block then that would put the bow ends pointing straight down as in the two previous pictures.

But given the gap between the bow and the block ...

... and wear in the pivots giving a less-than-ideal angle ...

... the bow bracket can ride up over the block which allows the bow to tilt forwards when the frame is raised, which is when the ends of the bow foul the body when the frame is lowered.

With the frame raised a line of paint marks on the three elements ...

... shows that the bow support 'A' remains aligned to the rear strut 'C', so could conceivably be welded to it.

I root around in my box of scrap metal and offcuts, and find an old Mini rear brake handbrake lever dating back 45 years - some of which has already been used for something else - and find it is the ideal thickness and width, so cut two pieces off ...

... which (having just been placed here) should nicely fill the gap between the two struts better than the existing block. Judging by the effort needed to hacksaw through it's harder than basic mild-steel, probably because it needs to be able to force the shoes on tight without excessive wear in the pivot or where it engages with the shoe.