The earlier arrangement (HS carbs on LHD cars, all chrome bumper UK cars) uses a plain socket for the outer and a clamp for the free end of the throttle cable at the carbs. This uses a special stud consisting of a hex nut with a threaded stud on one side and a plain stud on the other, both having a small hole drilled through them across the line of the studs. The plain stud goes through a hole in the finger on the throttle interconnecting shaft, then the hook-plate for the return spring, and a washer, and is secured with a split-pin. The free end of the cable goes through the hole in the threaded stud, a washer goes on top, and a nut on top of that, these last two clamping the cable and adjusting for cable length. There are flats somewhere on the special stud to allow you to hold it with a thin spanner whilst tightening the nut. This arrangement has the choke cable coming up from below, with a moving outer and a fixed inner. Note this continued on RHD cars until the 77 model year.
The later arrangement (HIF LHD cars and rubber bumper UK cars). On these the throttle cable comes with nipples on both ends, and a 'U'-bracket on the carb end. There is a threaded adjuster for the outer to adjust for cable length. This arrangement has the choke cable coming down from above and the more conventional fixed outer and moving inner. Note this shows the throttle partly operated for clarity, when at rest there should only be a very small clearance between the 'finger' on the throttle interconnecting shaft and the choke interconnecting shaft (see 'SU Carbs' and 'Setting-up' for details). (Photo: Scott Loehning)
Throttle pedal back-stop bolt and lock-nut. The bolt screws up into a threaded boss in the 'shelf' above the pedal, the locknut tightening up to the shelf to secure the bolt. A plate on the throttle pedal rests on the head of the bolt when the pedal is released. The cable is retained in the slot in the pedal arm by a split-pin to prevent the nipple coming free if the there is too much free-play with the pedal released.
Throttle pedal stop (LHD HS and CB HIF cars, up to 76 UK cars). Missing from the roadster when I received it, I made this from a bit of spare metal based on a rotten one obtained from a scrapper, the bolts screw into welded nuts on the toe-board. Before clamping the cable at the carb end slacken the back-stop lock-nut and screw in the bolt until it is clear of the pedal. Set the clamp (chrome bumper) or outer adjuster (rubber bumper) at the carb end so the pedal hits the stop just as the carbs are fully opened, you want to be able to fully open the carbs, but not stretch the cable. The pedal should now be floppy when released, screw the bolt down until it takes up almost all of the play, leaving just perceptible free play, before tightening the lock-nut.
At some time (LHD RB HIF and Zenith cars, 77 and on UK cars) the shape of the throttle pedal was changed to include this 'V' pointing backwards which makes the separate pedal stop unnecessary. The Parts Catalogue indicates that this was only for 77 and later cars for all markets, but it certainly seems to have been earlier for LHD cars i.e. from the start of rubber bumpers. This one has the same sized metal pad as the clutch and brake which is probably why it shows a rubber pad, which isn't shown in the Parts Catalogue (only for Mk1 cars with a smaller metal pad). By the time this 'V' shaped pedal bar was fitted to UK cars in 77 both RHD and LHD got a much longer metal pad to aid 'heel and toe' changes, again with no rubber pad. (Photo: Scott Loehning)
