|Index||Body||Brakes||Clutch||Cooling||Electrics||Engine||Fuel||Gearbox||Heater||Ignition||Propshaft||Rear Axle||Steering and Suspension||Wheels and Tyres||Miscellaneous
||The sectioned MGB at the British Motor Museum, Gaydon
A pal of a pal was getting rid of a nearly new pair of full-length ramps (as he now has a four-post lift!) and they were offered to me for £500. As they were around £1700 new that was something of a bargain. However as they were over a 200 miles round trip away in Hertford it wasn't really feasible to go down just to have a look at the size and try and work out if they would fit in my garage, so pal took loads of pictures and measurements. I pondered long and hard over those, decided they would fit, so the next question was how to get them here. Son-in-law has a van but they were just too long to fit in that, so it meant hiring one. However we were planning on moving some furniture down to my son near St Neots, so a 'two birds with one stone' trip was planned. All went well until we got down to Hertford and I saw just how big all the bits were - gulp! Too late to go back now though, so we loaded them up.
Once home I could take more detailed measurements, and realised that to assemble the two ramps and their lifting tube I either needed more width than I'd bargained for, or several beefy blokes to assemble them outside, then carry them in at an angle to get them through the door! However being American they were built for their monster vehicles, and the ramps were intended to be positioned further apart on the lifting tube than I needed for the MGBs. Even positioned as close together as they would go the centre of the ramps is still wider then the centre of the tyres. However it allowed me to chop a few inches off each end of the lifting tube, and I could assemble them in the garage. Each ramp is in two sections so the length can be adjusted as well, but even one of the sections was a struggle to move on my own, and I couldn't imagine being able to move all four of them plus assemble them. So a few days later son-in-law came round and we got them in and put them together.
The lifting tube has to be able to pivot up to allow the jack under, and down to allow the vehicle to clear them as it is driven on and off. But unless the ramps were very precisely positioned in all three orientations the tube could be very stiff to turn. But R-ing TFM I discovered the tube should have been greased where it passes through the larger tubes under the ramps! So this time single-handedly I wiggle the one ramp off the tube by dragging each end sideways a bit at a time, then I can pull the tube out of the other ramp. Grease that end, reinsert, grease the other end, then wiggle the first ramp back onto the tube again. Now the tube pivots really easily and is much less dependant on precise orientation.
The ramps are lowered both ends when not in use so I can park one of the cars on them, and that 'raises' (ho ho) a couple more issues. Because the entry end is now about 4" off the ground the manual describes how to make a pair of pre-ramps - easy enough. What's a bit more of an issue is lifting the 'blunt' end of each double-length ramp while you position the support tower underneath it - no easy task. I can get a jack under the end (sides won't work as they are too close to the ground) and raise it far enough to get blocks under, then move the jack round to the side away from where the tower fits while I raise it the rest of the way, but that is a bit of a faff. So various Wallace and Gromit devices are being discussed, one of the maddest being a rope tied to the back of the car positioned just in front of the ramps, run over a pulley on a beam, and down to a hook at the end of the ramp - drive car forward, lift ramp, slide tower under. Split the rope and do both ramps at the same time :o) But in the end I settle for a block and tackle attached to a cross-beam conveniently near that end of the ramps.
Another slight inconvenience is that my relatively compact jack (I tour with it in the boot of either car) won't raise the lifting tube far enough in one go to lower the swinging legs and lock them in position. I have to jack it part way, then put axle stands under the tube, then slide a block made out of timbers with a sheet steel top under to stand the jack on while I raise it the rest of the way. I've looked at alternative jacks but to get one capable of lifting all the way in one go, but low enough profile to fit under the tube when lowered, is way too expensive for the very occasional use it would get.
High enough to get under and work with ease, but not so high I can't reach things when lying on my back.
I can only envy Herb Adler his space and 2-post lift ... I think! While Vee was at the paintshop I was able to use a 2-post lift to fit the cross-member and exhaust, amongst other things, and it was really hard work on the neck with my head bent back all the time, and on the arms. I know I'm also reaching up with my ramps, but at least I'm lying down with my head supported and can have a proper rest every now and again, instead of having to stand there all the time.
May 2018: As of 20th May 2018 there are new defect types, stricter rules for diesel car emissions, and some vehicles over 40 years old becoming exempt, see this DVSA document. The full MOT manual can be found here.
There is an interesting quirk that may come to pass regarding emissions testing, and maybe brake testing, if you declare your car as MOT exempt but still take it for testing. I've seen one claim that 40 year-old cars are now only checked for visual smoke, and not the actual levels. This means that cars first registered from 1st August which have always had the emissions measured, won't when they reach 40 years of age. On the face of it this does seem unlikely - it's not mentioned in the MOT manual, and indeed my 75 V8 MOT'd this month did have the emissions measured. However the tax isn't due until April 2019, meaning she hasn't yet been declared MOT exempt (but will be at that time even though I propose to continue with the MOT test). In the past I've asked my garage to measure the roadster (1973) emissions, but they say they can't as the machine is linked to the central DVSA computer, which tells them which test to apply based on the registration i.e. the age, and won't let them do a measurement. Maybe when a car is declared MOT exempt the machine again won't let them do a measurement, hence only a visual check will be applied. We shall see ... in a year's time!
January 2018: This months Enjoying MG contains a copy of a letter from the Department of Transport to the Beach Buggy Club who were querying historic status as applied to their heavily modified cars. The reply includes: "I should say that we are no longer proposing to use the DVLA's 8 point rule for determining whether a vehicle should be designated as 'substantially changed'. We are working on an alternative version in discussion with the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs and other stakeholders. We hope to issue final guidance soon. Any VHI (vehicle of historic interest) that is substantially changed will merely be required to have an MOT test". So on the face of it vehicles 40 or more years old will not require re-registration or Q-plates no matter how extensively modified. Also further indication that VHIs are not automatically MOT-exempt as some have said.
Also after consultation about delaying the first test to four years, it will remain at three. But given that 15% fail and most of those do so on tyres, lights and brakes maybe it should be brought forward!
December 2017: The document on Vehicles of Historical Interest (VHI): Substantial Change Guidance has been amended, but surprisingly it contains no date or issue information. The second half of page 1 is headed The criteria for substantial change and contains the following:
For axles and running gear the document goes on to say "in respect of axles and running gear changes made to improve efficiency, safety or environmental performance" are considered acceptable.
As V8 and V6 versions of the MGB were available from the factory these conversions are probably OK, unless perhaps the original manufacturer is completely different. But then you may be able to argue 'environmental' benefits for a modern low-emissions engine.
If you are in any doubt then the simple answer is NOT to attempt to register it as a VHI, and continue to have annual MOTs as before.
See also the latest information from the FBHVC.
October 2017: Outcomes regarding the proposal to extend the MOT exemption for historic vehicles to be the same as for road tax i.e. a rolling 40 years were published in September, to be implemented from 20th May 2018. This is despite a majority of respondents to the Government's survey being against it. Legislation is still being drafted but the consultation process states that 'substantially altered' (their words) vehicles will still need annual testing. Guidance on what constitutes 'substantially altered' is expected in November 2017. The existing guidance document (updated in December, see above) confusingly contains information on "The process for vehicle keepers declaring an old vehicle is exempt from testing.", most of which relates to when a vehicle first becomes exempt from road tax, not where it already is exempt and will now become exempt from testing. However there is a section on online renewal, which only applies to vehicles that are already in the Historic Vehicle tax-free class, as follows:
The Government Response to the consultation Para 13 Page 8 states:
September 2015: I've only just become aware of a proposal to extend the current exemption from needed an MOT for cars built before 1960, to cars built 40 or even 30 years ago following an EU rule-change. What is surprising is that the government website for discussion of these proposals closed nearly a year ago. The results of formal consultation are to be published in 'the second half of 2015', to be available for comment (February 2016: No sign of them yet).
Brake pipe corrosion is probably the biggest single risk given that most potentially exempt British classics only have single circuit brakes. I was aware of one of the V8 pipes corroding and had been keeping an eye on it, when I got an advisory. That spurred me into changing it, and while carefully removing it trying to keep the shape as near as possible to use as a former for the replacement, it fractured at the point of corrosion.
It's one thing if we kill ourselves through inadequate maintenance, quite another if we kill a child while emergency braking/steering trying to avoid it. If we aren't prepared to spend £35 per year on what is actually a not very stringent safety check we shouldn't have the cars. The statistics may be on our side, but that's no comfort to the family of an innocent victim. Witness calls for airshows to be banned following Shoreham, despite the very stringent checks and controls on aircraft, particularly historic and display aircraft.
The proposals are said to be in part connected with an expected significant revamp of the MOT to cover electronic safety systems in much more detail. But surely the very fact our cars don't have those means that those tests simply wouldn't be applied. And whilst visible corrosion is very rarely seen on cars built in the last 20 years, surely structural corrosion, brake pipe damage, steering and suspension component wear, leaks from brake and fuel systems, seat-belts, wipers, lights, horn and tyres and still going to be checked on modern cars
MOT Preparation Updated March 2012 by Michael Beswick [my comments]: April 1st sees the introduction of the recent MOT changes. Up to then these items are advisories. This is not exhaustive but covers those things likely to concern classic MG owners or perhaps owners of classic MGs:
September 2010: Michael Beswick found and has sent me this [my comments]:
"MOTs are a test - the tester may not adjust anything other than Headlamp aim during the test [if you suspect headlamp aim is off then drive to the test centre having removed the headlamp rings yourself, I suggest!]. Certain minor items - such as blown bulbs - can be replaced at the end of the test before the car is passed. Garages may well charge for fitting an item, especially if it is discounting the test [VERY silly to go for a test with blown bulbs ...]. (Currently £54 max but available for £39.95 etc) So it pays to avoid this if possible. Certain failure items must be retested for no fee. Partial re-tests may or may not incur a fee. Details are shown on a poster that MOT stations must display and on the VT30 fail certificate.
"All the usual caveats apply. Your investment can go down as well as up. Your home is at risk etc etc. This information is not governed by the Financial Services Authority......
"Hazard lights, (if fitted) must work , ignition on, ignition off
"Horn must work. Fuel cap must seal [visible rubber seal, not loose and rattling about, actually sealing is not checked]. Door mirrors to be secure. You must have a driver's door mirror and either a rear view or passenger side one [only one of interior, external offside, or external nearside mirror is required on passenger vehicles according to MOTUK]
"Wipers must work, with blades that clear the screen and are intact [clear an arc to give an 'adequate' view, not specified]. Washers +fluid. (push type washer is fine). Windscreen - chips bigger than 10mm in the area in front of the steering wheel will fail: as will bigger than 40mm in the rest of the area swept by the wiper blades.
"Indicators left & right. 60-120 flashes per minute is required.
"Side lights - front and back, dip beam, main beam, rear number plate lights. If fitted, rear fog light + tell-tale [if two are fitted the off-side lamp must work. If neither work but they are accessories added by an owner then you may get away with it!]. Brake lights. Indicate left then right and check stop/tail lights don't flash in time. (Reverse lights don't matter [not tested, although at one time if they were operated from a manual switch by the driver they must also have a tell-tale])
"Then put hazards on and all the above, (except indicators) to check that other lights are not "disco-ing" in time with the hazards.
"Seat belts must recoil (often slowly!), unless static type, and lock in place in the buckle. Belts must not be unduly frayed.
"Check the tyre tread depth - it needs to be 2mm (1.6mm is the legal min). Check the side walls for bulges or damage. You can't do much about the inside face without lying under the car!
"Handbrake - does the lever poke you in the eye when you pull it up? Turn the steering wheel - if it moves more than from 12 o'clock to 1 o'clock without turning the road wheels it will probably fail (depends on steering wheel diameter)
"Exhaust must be "supported" - waggle the tail pipe a bit (when cold...) - it shouldn't. Noise is subjective, as it is difficult to determine a "standard" car!
"Number plates - lots of regulations. Stick on ones on the bonnet should pass but don't always. 1/1/73 was the change year from metal black & silver to modern yellow/white. Take the V5C to prove date of first registration and/or ask first!
"Bits must not be obviously falling off!
"Play in bearings, suspension, or steering is beyond the scope of this. If you think headlamp aim may be wrong, remove the chrome bezel before the test to make adjustment easier. If you can see the front brake pads they must be a minimum 1.5mm thick (the thickness of a 5 pence piece).
"Corrosion within 300mm of a suspension mounting or seat belt anchorage or major structural item will fail
"Local classic car clubs/users can best advise on "sympathetic" MOT stations who understand older cars. High throughput / low price ones probably do not fall onto this category! If you are not sure about a particular thing , take the car in and ask BEFORE the test is due!
"If the car has no MOT you may legally drive it to a pre-booked MOT test - nowhere else. Insurance for this trip is a slightly murky area. [You can get insurance without having tax or an MOT. I'm pretty sure it is an offence to drive to an MOT station without insurance, regardless of whether it is a pre-booked test or not. It's not something you should ever put to the test, I suggest, or you may be personally liable for any damage or injury caused to third-parties as well as being prosecuted. Note that someone else may be able to drive your car on their insurance, which may be Third-party cover only.]
"Should the car fail, you can drive it home or to a garage to have it fixed [The MOT station may encourage you not to drive the car away on safety grounds, i.e. have it fixed there and then or arrange for it to be towed/trailered somewhere else, but they cannot legally prevent you driving it away].
"Should you have some days "left" on your current MOT but the car fails the test, you still have an MOT, but you are driving an "un-roadworthy" vehicle. The current MOT Pass certificate shows the earliest date at which the vehicle can be presented for test - just under a month before the certificate expires [But see here]. By having the car tested near this date, there should be ample time to fix items that fail. If the car passes, the new certificate is automatically dated for 12 months from the date of the expiry of the current certificate. However if it does fail, be aware that although you still have an MOT, you are driving an "unroadworthy vehicle" which restricts legal use. The penalties are pretty similar to not having an MOT and whilst technically covered by your insurance in legal terms, you are unlikely to have a claim settled.
[My son when living in London had no facilities to work on his car and regularly had it MOT'd twice a year].
"I've probably missed something, but it's a start! Good Luck!"
For those that have to suffer it, the emissions limits and dates applicable are as follows:
For cars with a non-original engine MOTUK says "Test according to which is older, engine or vehicle."
You can also check the brakes to make sure the pedal doesn't sink under sustained pressure, and if you have a servo 'empty' it by repeated operations of the brake pedal with the engine off until it stops wheezing, then with the pedal firmly pressed start the engine. While emptying the servo the pedal should get higher and harder, then when starting the engine it should sink a little.
See also MOTUK. In addition I spend a few minutes each year under the car, at the annual service before the MOT, just looking around and waggling things, bending the brake hoses back looking for surface cracking etc.
November 2011:There are proposals to cease MOT testing of cars registered before 1st January 1960, as well as possibly make testing a bi-annual event for newer cars. One has to ask "Why?" One of the reasons seem to be that owners of 1960 and earlier cars are likely to be enthusiasts and so look after their cars better, but that doesn't follow at all. It's true that pre-1960 cars are 0.6% of the population, and contribute to 0.03" of road casualties and accidents, but that is down to the greater sense of self-preservation of people driving cars of this era. Many cars at the 'lower' end of the classic price scale are likely to be owned by younger and less well-off people, with other cars and families to support, who may well take short-cuts on their pride and joy if they are allowed to. They are equally liable to be owned by people who don't know as much about their cars as perhaps they ought to, as can be seen by some of the questions and comments in the various online communities. Another reason given is that many aspects of the current test are not relevant to older cars - which is true, but in that case they are not tested! It's difficult to see just what could be dropped from the MOT that isn't safety-related. I'm no lover of MOTs, it's taken me 20 years to lose the 'heart in the mouth' feeling on delivering my cars for their tests and getting the verdict. As a Michael Beswick has said, it will only take one child to be killed or seriously injured by a classic car that had a defect that should have been picked up on an MOT, and we might find ourselves under a much stricter regime or maybe even restricted to trailering them to private circuits etc. Nigel Case, owner of the Classic Car Club, is quoted as saying "It’s nonsense. Older cars need more attention. You could buy a car which seems superficially fantastic, but it will be rotten underneath and a death trap."
Even less reason for reducing the frequency on cars less than 10 years old, with the first test being at four years. One of the biggest reasons for failure of modern cars is worn tyres, and you can see this in any supermarket car park. Manufacturers have progressively reduced the ownership experience to one of being completely passive, and most people only ever do things like servicing and replacements when someone tells them they have to. The failure rate is increasing - 35% in 2008, 37% in 2010, and 12% of tyres are illegal on replacement. In the current financial climate people are cutting down on servicing where things might get picked up, and the MOT will be the only time that they can be.
Despite the above, there are new advisories from 1st Jan 2012 which will be failures from 1st April 2012. That's the list of new and amended items, but before you groan about something like the steering lock on an MGB having to be working as I did (Vee's has never worked in my ownership) you might like to have a look at the full manual. This has new and amended paragraphs and sections denoted by a vertical bar to the left, and in the case of the steering lock it is only to be tested on cars first used from 1st January 2001. There are others, like the new main-beam tell-tale check is only on cars first used from 1st April 1986. One thing that applies to all vehicles is the battery condition and security check - all those who have fitted 'battery bins' or 12v batteries and not bothered to re-engineer the clamps take note!
Nuts and bolts can be assembled with dry, oiled or greased threads. From comparisons made with generic sources of information it seems that the figures in the MG Workshop Manual, at least, are probably for oiled threads. Greasing threads can make them liable to come loose. For example I read many years ago that wheel studs should be oiled, not greased.
Although there are a lot of figures here there are still a lot more where no torque figure is given. It is possible that those given here are 'non-standard' torque values and the rest should be tightened to the 'standard' values for the type, size and thread of the nut and bolt:
Also see this list of 'standard' values from the Rover V8 Engine Manual:
|4-Cylinder Engine||Factory V8||Conversion V8||Gearbox||Prop-shaft||Rear Axle||Front Suspension||Rear Suspension||Steering||Brakes||General|
|Air-pump mounting screws||if fitted||18||2.5||24
||Big-end bolts||early||35 to 40||4.8 to 5.5||48 to 54
||Big-end bolts oiled thread||12-sided||33||4.5||45
||Camshaft nut||All models||60 to 70||8.3 to 9.68||81 to 95
||Carburettor stud nuts||18G/18GA||2||0.28||3
||Carburettor stud nuts||All models||15||2.1||20
||Clutch to flywheel||All models||25 to 30||3.4 to 4.1||34 to 41
||Crankshaft pulley bolt||All models||70||9.6||95
||Cylinder head nuts||18G/18GA||45 to 50||6.2 to 6.9||61 to 68
||Cylinder side cover screws||18G/18GA||2||0.28||3
||Cylinder side cover screws deep cover||18G/18GA||5||0.7||7
||Distributor clamp bolt (bolt trapped)||18G/18GA||2 to 2.5||0.3 to 0.35||3 to 4
||Distributor clamp bolt (nut trapped)||18G/18GA||4.16||0.57||5
||Fan blade fixing screws||18G/18GA||7.3 to 9.3||1.0 to 1.3||9 to 12
||Flywheel set screws||18G/18GA||40||5.5||54
||Front plate 5/16 inch screws||All models||20||2.8||27
||Gudgeon pin clamp bolts||18G/18GA||25||3.4||34
||Main bearing nuts||All models||70||9.7||95
||Manifold nuts||All models||15 to 16||2.1 to 2.2||20 to 22
||Oil filter centre bolt||18G/18GA||15||2.1||20
||Oil pipe banjo||All models||37 max||5.1 max||50 max
||Oil pressure relief valve domed nut||Pre-78||43||5.9||58
||Oil pressure relief valve domed nut||78-on||40||5.5||54
||Oil pump to crankcase||All models||14||1.9||19
||Rear engine mounting bolt||All models||38 to 40||5.22 to 5.53||52 to 54
||Rear plate 3/8 inch screws||All models||30||4.1||41
||Rear plate 5/16 inch screws||All models||20||2.8||27
||Rocker bracket nuts||All models||25||3.4||34
||Rocker cover nuts||18G/18GA||4||0.56||5
||Spark plugs||All models||18||2.5||24
||Sump to crankcase||All models||6||0.8||8
||Timing cover 1/4 inch screws||18G/18GA||6||0.8||8
||Timing cover 5/16 inch screws||18G/18GA||14||1.9||19
||Water outlet elbow nuts||18G/18GA||8||1.1||11
||Water pump to crankcase||18G/GA||17||2.4||23
||Water pump to crankcase||Later models||25||3.5||34
||Note that the WSM quotes 17ftlb for 18G and GA i.e. early cars whereas Haynes quotes early models as 25 ft lb and late models as 17 ft lb i.e. the other way round.
||ENGINE (Factory V8)||FtLb||KgM||NM
||Carburettor adapter nuts||18||2.49||24
||Connecting rod cap nuts||33||4.56||45
||Crankshaft pulley bolt||150||20.73||203
||Cylinder head bolts||68||9.4||92
||Distributor drive gear to camshaft bolt||43||5.94||58
||Exhaust manifold bolts||13||1.8||18
||Induction manifold bolts||28||3.87||38
||Induction manifold gasket clamp bolt||13||1.8||18
||Main bearing cap bolts: Nos. 1 to 4||53||7.32||72
||Oil pressure relief valve plug||33||4.56||45
||Oil pump cover bolts|
WARNING! I got mine up to about 10 and they didn't seem to want to go higher. Bearing in mind they are going into the alloy front cover I stopped. If you look at the 'Other V8' figures there are two - 9ftlb and for Suffix B 3ftlb. 3 seems a bit low for oil under pressure even with Loctite, but 9 is definitely safer than 13.
||Rocker shaft to cylinder head bolts||28||3.87||38
||Timing chain cover bolts||23||3.18||31
||Water pump bolts: 1/4 U.N.C.||7||0.97||9
|| 5/16 U.N.C.||17||2.35||23
||ENGINE (Other V8)||FtLb||KgM||NM
||Camshaft gear bolt||37||5.12||50
||Camshaft thrust plate bolts - If fitted||18||2.49||25
||Connecting rod nuts:||37||5.12||50
||Connecting rod bolts: Stage 1||15||2.07||20
||Connecting rod bolts: Stage 2 Further 80 °||Coolant pump/timing cover to cylinder block||16||2.21||22
||Crankshaft pulley bolt ||200||28||270
||Cylinder head bolts - Engine numbers with suffix B: + */**** Stage 1||15||2.07||20
|| Stage 2 Further 90 °|| Stage 3 Further 90 °||Cylinder head bolts - Engine numbers without suffix B: + * Bolts 11 to 14 - Outer row||44||6.09||60
|| Bolts 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 - Centre row||66||9.13||90
|| Bolts 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 - Inner row||66||9.13||90
||Distributor clamp nut||15||2.07||20
||Drive plate and clamp ring bolts||33||4.56||45
||Drive plate hub aligner Allen bolts||63||8.71||85
||Lifting eye to cylinder head bolts||30||4.15||40
||Main bearing cap bolts + * Initial torque - all bolts:||10||1.38||14
||Final torque: Numbers 1 to 4 main bearing cap bolts:||52||7.19||70
||Final torque: Rear main bearing cap bolts:||66||9.13||90
||Oil pick-up pipe bolts||8||1.11||10
||Oil pressure relief valve plug - Engine numbers without suffix B||33||4.56||45
||Oil pressure switch||11||1.52||15
||Oil pump cover plate bolt - if fitted **||6||0.83||8
||Oil pump cover plate screws - Engine numbers with suffix B **||3||0.41||4
||Oil pump cover to timing cover - Engine numbers without suffix B||9||1.24||12
||Oil strainer bolts||7||0.97||10
||Oil strainer nut - Engine numbers with suffix B||16||2.21||22
||Oil sump bolts +||17||2.35||23
||Oil sump drain plug||33||4.56||45
||Rocker cover bolts: + **** Stage 1||2.5||0.35||3
|| Stage 2||6||0.83||8
||Rocker shaft to cylinder head bolts||28||3.87||38
||Secondary air injection adapters - If fitted ***||24||3.32||33
||Timing cover to cylinder block bolts **||16||2.21||22
||* Lightly oil threads prior to assembly.
||** Coat threads with sealant Part number STC 50552 prior to assembly.
||*** New adapters must be fitted
||**** New bolts must be fitted
||Gearbox remote control cover to tunnel||3-synch||7.5 to 9.5||1.1 to 1.3||11 to 13
||Drive flange nut overdrive||Type D||100 to 130||13.8 to 18.0||136 to 176
||Drive flange nut overdrive||Type LH||55 to 60||7.6 to 8.3||75 to 81
||Drive flange nut without overdrive||manual||150||20.7||203
||Mounting to gearbox case||manual||15 to 20||2.1 to 2.8||20 to 27
||Cam bracket screws||automatic||20 to 40||2.77 to 5.53||27 to 54
||Centre support bolts||automatic||10 to 18||1.38 to 2.49||14 to 24
||Converter to drive plate bolts||automatic||25 to 30||3.46 to 4.15||34 to 41
||Downshift cable adaptor bolts||automatic||8 to 9||1.11 to 1.24||11 to 12
||Drain plug||automatic||8 to 10||1.11 to 1.38||11 to 14
||Drive flange nut||automatic||55 to 60||7.6 to 8.3||75 to 81
||Driving flange nut||automatic||55 to 60||7.6 to 8.3||75 to 81
||Extension housing to transmission case||automatic||8 to 13||1.1 to 1.8||11 to 18
||Filler tube connector sleeve to transmission case||automatic||20 to 30||2.77 to 4.15||27 to 41
||Filler tube to connector sleeve nut||automatic||17 to 18||2.35 to 2.49||23 to 24
||Front brake band adj. screw locknut||automatic||15 to 20||2.1 to 2.8||20 to 27
||Front servo adjusting screw locknut||automatic||15 to 20||2.07 to 2.77||20 to 27
||Front servo bolts||automatic||8 to 13||1.11 to 1.80||11 to 18
||Governor to counterweight screws||automatic||4 to 5||0.55 to 0.69||5 to 74
||Governor to cover plate screws||automatic||20 to 48||2.77 to 6.64||27 to 65
||Lower valve body to upper valve body scr||automatic||20 to 30||2.77 to 4.15||27 to 41
||Manual shaft locknut||automatic||7 to 9||0.97 to 1.24||9 to 12
||Oil pan to gearbox||automatic||8 to 13||1.1 to 1.8||11 to 18
||Oil tube and end plate to valve body||automatic||20 to 30||2.77 to 4.15||27 to 41
||Pressure adaptor plug||automatic||4 to 5||0.55 to 0.69||5 to 7
||Pump adaptor to housing bolts||automatic||17 to 32||2.35 to 4.43||23 to 43
||Pump adaptor to housing screw||automatic||2 to 3||0.28 to 0.41||3 to 4
||Pump adaptor to transmission case||automatic||8 to 18.5||1.11 to 2.56||11 to 24
||Rear brake band adj. screw locknut||automatic||25 to 30||3.46 to 4.15||34 to 41
||Rear servo adjusting screw locknut||automatic||25 to 30||3.46 to 4.15||34 to 41
||Rear servo bolts||automatic||13 to 27||1.80 to 3.73||18 to 37
||Starter inhibitor switch locknut||automatic||4 to 6||0.55 to 0.83||5 to 8
||Stone guard screws||automatic||17 to 19||2.35 to 2.63||23 to 26
||Transmission case to converter housing||automatic||8 to 13||1.11 to 1.80||11 to 18
||Upper valve body to lower valve body scr||automatic||20 to 30||2.77 to 4.15||27 to 41
||Valve bodies to transmission case bolts||automatic||5 to 9||0.69 to 1.24||7 to 12
||Flange nuts||All models||30 to 35||4.1 to 4.8||41 to 47
||Axle shaft nut||Salisbury||150||20.7||203
||Bearing retaining nut|
Then align to next hole
||Crown wheel bolts||Salisbury||60 to 65||8.3 to 9.0||81 to 88
||Crown wheel to differential carrier||Banjo||55 to 60||7.6 to 8.3||75 to 81
||Differential bearing cap bolts||Salisbury||50 to 55||6.9 to 7.6||68 to 75
||Differential bearing cap bolts||Banjo||60 to 65||8.3 to 9.0||81 to 88
||Pinion bearing nut||Banjo||135 to 140||18.7 to 19.4||183 to 190
||Pinion nut new spacer only||180 to 220||24.9 to 30.4||244 to 298
||Pinion nut oil seal change||Mark nut, shaft and flange positions, refit and tighten to the same point
||Anti roll bar link||All models||60||8.3||81
||Bearing retaining nut stage 1||All models||40 to 70||5.5 to 9.7||54 to 95
|| stage 2||Tighten to next split-pin hole
||Bottom wishbone pivot to cross-member nut||Factory V8||45||6.22||61
||Cross member to body||4-cyl||54 to 56||7.5 to 7.7||73 to 76
||Cross member to side member nut: Top||Factory V8||55||7.61||75
|| Bottom||Factory V8||45||6.22||61
||Front shock absorber bolts||All models||43 to 45||5.9 to 6.2||58 to 61
||King pin to damper - upper fulcrum ||40||5.5||54
||King pin to wishbone - lower fulcrum ||45||6.2||61
||King pin trunnion (nut on top of king pin) ||60||8.3||81
||Shock absorber pinch bolt||All models||28||3.9||38
||Spring pan nuts and screws||All models||22||3.0||30
||Stiff nut to crossmember mounting bolt||Mk2||44 to 46||6.1 to 6.4||60 to 62
||Wishbone cross bolt||All models||28||3.9||38
||Rear shock absorber bolts||4-Cyl||55 to 60||7.6 to 8.3||75 to 81
||Shock absorber to side-member nut||Factory V8||58||8.0||78.6
||Column clamp bolt|
Note this is given in the manual as "85 lbf inches"
||Road wheel nuts||4-cyl||60 to 65||8.3 to 9.0||81 to 88
||Road wheel nuts||Factory V8||60||8.3||81
||Steering arm bolts||All models||60 to 65||8.3 to 9.0||81 to 88
||Steering column top fixing bolts||All models||12 to 17||1.66 to 2.35||16 to 23
||Steering column universal joint bolts||All models||20 to 22||2.77 to 3.04||27 to 30
||Steering lever balljoint nut||All models||34 to 35||4.7 to 4.8||46 to 47
||Steering rack and pinion bearing nut||All models||40||5.5||54
||Steering rack fixings||30||4.1||41
||Steering tie-rod lock nut||All models||33 to 38||4.56 to 5.26||45 to 52
||Steering wheel nut||36 to 38||4.98 to 5.26||49 to 52
||Steering wheel nut 11/16 in. UNF||41 to 43||5.67 to 5.95||56 to 58
||Steering wheel nut 9/16 in. UNF||27 to 29||3.73 to 4.01||37 to 39
||Steering wheel nut||Factory V8||28||3.87||38
||Swivel pin nut stage 1||All models||60||8.3||81
|| stage 2||Tighten to next split-pin hole
||Brake caliper clamping bolts|
Spotted by Ed Woods in the main body of the manual: "Only split the caliper if it is unavoidable, then replace the fluid channel seal, bolts and lock plates. Only bolts supplied by BMC Service Ltd. may be used"
|All models||35.5 to 37||4.8 to 5.1||48 to 50
||Brake caliper securing bolts||All models||40 to 45||5.5 to 6.2||54 to 61
||Brake disc to hub||All models||40 to 45||5.5 to 6.2||54 to 61
||Brake front servo bolts||All models||8 to 13||1.1 to 1.8||11 to 18
||Brake pressure failure switch (nylon)|
Note given as 15 lb